Thursday, March 3, 2016

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini | Fall 2016

Darker Horse devotees know this blog pretty much features knitwear exclusively.  Yet, I have to admit it's the rare collection or designer who can shift the tides of fashion with sweaters alone.

You might need to wet your thumb and stick it in the air to feel which way the current of fashion is coming from, but I think we are on the precipice of understanding where we are going.  With his Fall, 2016 Philosophy Collection, Lorenzo Serafini offers perhaps a more easily relatable interpretation of what Alessandro Michele at Gucci has been coaxing us to experience.  That's not to say the collection is derivative; femininity and flounce are long established codes of the brand. And while I don't love these sweaters as sweaters alone, I appreciate them within the broader fashion landscape as of late.  A little toughness and edge with a healthy dose of quirk seems to be what Milan, especially, is all about these days.

A few pieces on a rail do not a shift in trends make, which is why it's important to look not only at a designer's show in its entirety, but also other shows of the season to understand fashion's loftier expression.

I encourage you to check out Philosophy's full Fall 2016 collection.  Then go study Gucci's under Michele; which is the real game-charger in fashion right now.  Could this signal an even more subtle shift from the Paris houses to the Italians? Maybe...but we'll have to wait another season or two to let that one play out.

All photos courtesy of

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