Showing posts with label Writing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Writing. Show all posts

Monday, April 27, 2020

Creativity in the Time of Coronavirus

I wanted to share this short video, which I personally found inspiring. In times of crisis, the seeming futility of my chosen profession in fashion often leaves me feeling a bit "less than" friends who are doctors or journalists or public servants. Art and other "non-essential" businesses like fashion can be easily dismissed or even criticized for being insensitive to the gravity of world events such as war, hunger, and yes, a global health pandemic. I would agree that a doctor or a nurse or a farmer are certainly more critical at this time than almost everything else but if we carve out all the creatives, we would be left with a society that swims in very dark and dystopian waters.

Imagine a world where everyone had to be "essential" by these definitions. That would mean no music, no Netflix, no chefs teaching us tasty new recipes, no team sports, no paintings, no books, no TikTok or Instagram and no fashion either. We would only exist to ensure that everyone survives but perhaps where no one thrives.

The man in this video is a shoemaker. This was his calling. He is intense about his work in a way that leaves no doubt that he does this for his own personal fulfillment; the penultimate "artist." It is exactly the purity of his pursuits that imbues his art with meaning, which in turn bestows happiness on to a stranger who may one day wear his creations. By much broader philosophical definitions than we ever think to credit, he is essential.

I am no fool...most fashion does not do this but he allows us to dream...which in times of crisis, really does seem necessary.





Tuesday, August 28, 2018

Thoughts on Sustainability and Fast-Fashion

Photo by Lillie Eiger

I received an email from a reader in New Zealand about the very inexpensive dress I included as part of yesterday's post showing a connection between the sculptures of Berner Venet and things I noticed floating around in the fashion ether.

The dress in question came from a D2C online Chinese company that I instinctively knew, after many years in this industry, couldn't be on the up and up. The reader was surprised and disappointed that I would include such an item despite my concerns, which I directly questioned in the post itself, about living wages and other labor and environmental violations a dress with such a low price would demand. She claimed that after clicking through to the site she felt like she needed a shower! Presumably because it was so icky and disturbing.

She was right to call me out. And so I removed the image as well as the link to the manufacturers site. If you check back you will notice that the post has been updated.

You probably know that I am an animal lover as well as a lover of all sweaters furry and fringe-y because they are a great alternative to using real fur. A while ago I pointed out that I would make sure to no longer post any image which has real animal fur shown. Because I'm also an advocate for sustainability and transparency in the fashion industry I mentioned the conundrum that faux furs create because the synthetic fibres from which they are made rely heavily on fossil fuels. I personally have made a choice that I would be anti-(real)fur first and support mills and bio-engineers working on alternative solutions for more eco-friendly materials.

In fact, I consulted with a brand that specializes in faux fur clothing to help them develop eco-friendly yarns which can be turned into eco-friendly, furry fabrics for their collection. They are being supported by both PETA and Cradle-to-Cradle in this endeavor. (Unfortunately I can't mention their name just yet.) This kind of thing is the future of fashion but it's going to take time.

We have a global culture of mass overconsumption. There is too much "stuff" in the world and $19 dresses contribute to the egregious waste of the earth's natural resources. $19 dresses also mean someone is probably not making a living wage or working in facilities that are safe.

53 million tons of clothing are produced each year and about 85% of that ends up in landfills. It is estimated that a woman wears an item of clothing an average of 7 times before getting rid of it. Each pound of clothing that ends up in a landfill produces 2lbs of CO2 emissions and landfill clothes, which can take up to 200 years to decompose in some cases, leak toxic dyes and chemicals into the soil, which can contaminate local drinking water.

Consumers are detached from this reality and unless those of us in the industry help to educate them, the cycle will continue. A return to quality and an appreciation for craft and skill must be redeployed.

I realize that most people can't afford luxury or contemporary priced clothing but fast-fashion, in its quest to achieve endless growth and profits, has trained customers to want more and more; faster and for a lot less. The more "stuff" they crank out, the more "stuff" we're convinced we need and like any addiction it soon spirals out of control.

I guarantee there is plenty of wiggle room between the $4.99 t-shirt at Forever 21 and the $499 one from Saint Laurent. Consumers need to be reprogrammed to buy less and buy better.

In any case, I welcome any and all comments and will strive to maintain my high aesthetic standards and a consistent POV while also making sure to uphold my core beliefs.

Saturday, March 24, 2018

News | The Weekly Edit 3.24.18

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China's Fur Capital Touts Itself to World Even if Fur's Out at Versace and Other Leading Fashion Houses - South China Morning Post

Image via The Daily Top

  • The image above of bunnies is not from the linked article. Honestly I couldn't include pictures, as seemingly benign as they are, from an article which promotes the fur trade. You can see them when you read the article  
  • EDITOR'S NOTE:  In case you are scared to click through, the pictures in the article are not gory or illustrative in any way, shape, or form of the horrors of animal cruelty.
  • My Confession:  I think its known by now where I stand on fur. I hate it. I hate that I wear leather and I hate that I have a weakness for burgers even after spending 16 years of my life as a (mostly) vegetarian. I hated it when I would walk through of halls of Coach and see rooms and rails fur of leather skins. I used to count to myself how many dead animals each rack would amount to. I'm trying not to be preachy lest anyone call me a hypocrite. We human beings are complicated. I'm not trying to hide my own transgressions but for now, I can at least definitely, comfortably say no to fur. It's a step in the right direction.
  • So with all that out of the way let me sociologically make the case that fur represents everything the #MeToo and #TimesUp revolution is fighting against. To me, fur conjures up images of a 1950's housewife who receives a mink coat by her hard-working husband for being a dutiful housemaid. A fur coat was a symbol of status; an item imbued with a level of achievement and financial standing in a rising middle-class society. But note, women never bought the fur for themselves. It wasn't a symbol of HER hard work. It was a symbol her husband's. One could make the case that a fur coat then was more a symbol of oppression rather than one of reward. Too much of a reach? Maybe. I just hate fur.
  • Here's a list of fashion houses and retailers that have gone #FurFree.  Some have always been on the list, some recently joined:

LUXURY DESIGNERS:
  1. Armani
  2. Botega Venetta
  3. Calvin Klein
  4. Donna Karan - Just announced as I write this list. DK is now owned by G-III Apparel. As of now, this is the only brand in G-III's portfolio which has pledged to go Fur Free 
  5. Gucci *recently announced
  6. Hugo Boss
  7. Kate Spade
  8. Lacoste
  9. Michael Kors *recently announced
  10. Ralph Lauren
  11. Stella McCartney *also leather free
  12. Tommy Hilfiger
  13. Vivienne Westwood
  14. Versace *recently announced  
BRANDS/RETAILERS:
  1. Henri Bendel (which is owned by Limited Brands which owns VS)
  2. Lulemon
  3. Net-A-Porter
  4. Nike
  5. Patagonia *of course!
  6. The North Face
  7. Victoria's Secret
  8. Yoox 
  • Many vertical retailers and non-luxury brands such as ASOS, Gap, H&M, Top Shop, Urban Outfitters, and Zara have always been fur-free because of price restrictions.

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San Francisco Becomes Largest US City to Ban Fur - The New York Times

Sorry Girls!  You'll have to find other ways to be fabulous.

Image from SAGA Furs Website
(have to give credit unfortunately)

  • Companion piece to the above which simply reports the news of this groundbreaking decision. It will be interesting to see if other cities follow suit.
  • If you still like the look of furry coats, check this video out from YouTube.  I've discussed the double-edge sword with faux fur and its effects on the environment but you have to go through the middle to get the end. Baby steps are better than no steps.

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Thursday, March 8, 2018

Reebok Launches the New Fast Flexweave Running Shoe


On Monday March 5th, I joined star athletes, professional trainers, and fitness enthusiasts to celebrate Reebok's launch of their latest running shoe: Fast Flexweave.

A bunch of workout clothes along with a pair of Reebok Classics (which were mistakenly sent to me in a 9 1/2 instead of the 6 1/2 I needed) arrived at my apartment a few days earlier along with a message to come prepared to partake in an intense workout.  

Upon arrival at Industria Studios, we were shown to our very own locker, complete with nameplate, where our shiny, new shoes awaited inside.


---CLICK HERE TO READ MY COMPLETE REVIEW FOR INNOVATION IN TEXTILES---


Saturday, February 24, 2018

Interview with Asta Skocir, Co-Founder of AlgiKnit


Back in November, I shared a link to an article I wrote for Knitting IndustryInnovation in Textiles about a conference I attended at the United Nations called Fashion & Sustainability: Look Good, Feel Good, Do Good.

As a follow-up to my growing interest in sustainability, check out my latest article for Knitting Industry Creative, a sister site which recently launched, about new developments in bioyarns.

KIC will be a little less wonky and aims to reach the industry’s creatives; engaging with established designers, up-and-comers, students, and other creative professionals.  I'm very excited to be part of this new venture!




AligiKnit, the New York based biomaterials research group is on a mission to rescue the planet from the enormously harmful effects of the fashion industry. They have developed a compostable yarn from kelp, which can be knit into zero-waste, fully-fashioned garments or transformed into a textile for applications in footwear.
Among their many achievements, they’ve been keynote speakers at MAGIC, invited to exhibit at The Clinton Global Initiative, are winners of the National Geographic “Chasing Genius” award and are grant recipients from the London-based RebelBio Accelerator program.
I sat down with co-founder and F.I.T Professor Asta Skocir to learn more about AlgiKnit’s plans for becoming leaders in sustainable manufacturing...
p.s. you can follow Asta at KnitGrandeur and on Instagram and Twitter
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Thursday, November 23, 2017

Time To Be Thankful...and "Think-Full"

While we're all being sloths on the couch recovering from our food comas, it seems like the perfect time to remind people that while we should all be grateful and happy for the good things in our lives, there is still much work to be done to make things even better.

I'm excited to share my first published article for Knitting Industry and it's sister site Innovation In Textiles where I report from the United Nations in NYC about fashion and the massively deleterious effects its having on our planet.

"Sustainability" is the buzzword du jour, and not to be a total buzz-kill, but before you load up your Amazon shopping carts on Black Friday, I encourage you to read my piece and think twice. Perhaps a donation to Greenpeace in a loved one's honor might be enticing instead?

Here's a little morsel for you to chew on with dessert:

It takes 913 gallons of water to make just one measly cotton t-shirt. That's enough drinking water for 1 person for 900 days! Yup. True fact. Need another? 1 in every 6 people on the planet is employed by the global apparel industry. It's no longer acceptable for anyone to say that fashion is frivolous. Its tentacles are literally everywhere.

Click --- HERE --- to read on

Sphere Within Sphere by Arnaldo Pomodoro
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