Showing posts with label News. Show all posts
Showing posts with label News. Show all posts

Saturday, March 24, 2018

News | The Weekly Edit 3.24.18

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China's Fur Capital Touts Itself to World Even if Fur's Out at Versace and Other Leading Fashion Houses - South China Morning Post

Image via The Daily Top

  • The image above of bunnies is not from the linked article. Honestly I couldn't include pictures, as seemingly benign as they are, from an article which promotes the fur trade. You can see them when you read the article  
  • EDITOR'S NOTE:  In case you are scared to click through, the pictures in the article are not gory or illustrative in any way, shape, or form of the horrors of animal cruelty.
  • My Confession:  I think its known by now where I stand on fur. I hate it. I hate that I wear leather and I hate that I have a weakness for burgers even after spending 16 years of my life as a (mostly) vegetarian. I hated it when I would walk through of halls of Coach and see rooms and rails fur of leather skins. I used to count to myself how many dead animals each rack would amount to. I'm trying not to be preachy lest anyone call me a hypocrite. We human beings are complicated. I'm not trying to hide my own transgressions but for now, I can at least definitely, comfortably say no to fur. It's a step in the right direction.
  • So with all that out of the way let me sociologically make the case that fur represents everything the #MeToo and #TimesUp revolution is fighting against. To me, fur conjures up images of a 1950's housewife who receives a mink coat by her hard-working husband for being a dutiful housemaid. A fur coat was a symbol of status; an item imbued with a level of achievement and financial standing in a rising middle-class society. But note, women never bought the fur for themselves. It wasn't a symbol of HER hard work. It was a symbol her husband's. One could make the case that a fur coat then was more a symbol of oppression rather than one of reward. Too much of a reach? Maybe. I just hate fur.
  • Here's a list of fashion houses and retailers that have gone #FurFree.  Some have always been on the list, some recently joined:

LUXURY DESIGNERS:
  1. Armani
  2. Botega Venetta
  3. Calvin Klein
  4. Donna Karan - Just announced as I write this list. DK is now owned by G-III Apparel. As of now, this is the only brand in G-III's portfolio which has pledged to go Fur Free 
  5. Gucci *recently announced
  6. Hugo Boss
  7. Kate Spade
  8. Lacoste
  9. Michael Kors *recently announced
  10. Ralph Lauren
  11. Stella McCartney *also leather free
  12. Tommy Hilfiger
  13. Vivienne Westwood
  14. Versace *recently announced  
BRANDS/RETAILERS:
  1. Henri Bendel (which is owned by Limited Brands which owns VS)
  2. Lulemon
  3. Net-A-Porter
  4. Nike
  5. Patagonia *of course!
  6. The North Face
  7. Victoria's Secret
  8. Yoox 
  • Many vertical retailers and non-luxury brands such as ASOS, Gap, H&M, Top Shop, Urban Outfitters, and Zara have always been fur-free because of price restrictions.

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San Francisco Becomes Largest US City to Ban Fur - The New York Times

Sorry Girls!  You'll have to find other ways to be fabulous.

Image from SAGA Furs Website
(have to give credit unfortunately)

  • Companion piece to the above which simply reports the news of this groundbreaking decision. It will be interesting to see if other cities follow suit.
  • If you still like the look of furry coats, check this video out from YouTube.  I've discussed the double-edge sword with faux fur and its effects on the environment but you have to go through the middle to get the end. Baby steps are better than no steps.

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Thursday, March 8, 2018

Reebok Launches the New Fast Flexweave Running Shoe


On Monday March 5th, I joined star athletes, professional trainers, and fitness enthusiasts to celebrate Reebok's launch of their latest running shoe: Fast Flexweave.

A bunch of workout clothes along with a pair of Reebok Classics (which were mistakenly sent to me in a 9 1/2 instead of the 6 1/2 I needed) arrived at my apartment a few days earlier along with a message to come prepared to partake in an intense workout.  

Upon arrival at Industria Studios, we were shown to our very own locker, complete with nameplate, where our shiny, new shoes awaited inside.


---CLICK HERE TO READ MY COMPLETE REVIEW FOR INNOVATION IN TEXTILES---


Saturday, February 24, 2018

Interview with Asta Skocir, Co-Founder of AlgiKnit


Back in November, I shared a link to an article I wrote for Knitting IndustryInnovation in Textiles about a conference I attended at the United Nations called Fashion & Sustainability: Look Good, Feel Good, Do Good.

As a follow-up to my growing interest in sustainability, check out my latest article for Knitting Industry Creative, a sister site which recently launched, about new developments in bioyarns.

KIC will be a little less wonky and aims to reach the industry’s creatives; engaging with established designers, up-and-comers, students, and other creative professionals.  I'm very excited to be part of this new venture!




AligiKnit, the New York based biomaterials research group is on a mission to rescue the planet from the enormously harmful effects of the fashion industry. They have developed a compostable yarn from kelp, which can be knit into zero-waste, fully-fashioned garments or transformed into a textile for applications in footwear.
Among their many achievements, they’ve been keynote speakers at MAGIC, invited to exhibit at The Clinton Global Initiative, are winners of the National Geographic “Chasing Genius” award and are grant recipients from the London-based RebelBio Accelerator program.
I sat down with co-founder and F.I.T Professor Asta Skocir to learn more about AlgiKnit’s plans for becoming leaders in sustainable manufacturing...
p.s. you can follow Asta at KnitGrandeur and on Instagram and Twitter
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Saturday, February 17, 2018

News | The Weekly Edit 2.17.18

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No One Wants Your Used Clothes Anymore - Bloomberg

  • The Gist:  To assuage some of the guilt for compulsively buying cheap, trendy clothes consumers think they're being good stewards of the earth if they "donate" them.  Sadly, the secondhand or second-life apparel market is a ruse.  
  • Companies that once were able to take old clothes and turn them into items such as disaster relief blankets are being shut out of business by Chinese manufacturers who can produce new goods in better materials and for less money.
  • My thought bubble:  Touting sustainability isn't the answer. I'm not exactly sure what is but seems like we're approaching the tipping point of radical change in both the fashion industry specifically and the consumer goods market in totality.
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It's 2018, Ralph Lauren. Why Do You Think This Look is Still Cool? - The Washington Post
  • My thought bubble:  OMG!!! and OUCH!
  • Seriously though, it would be silly for me to critique a critique especially one by Robin Givhan whom I have long admired.
  • Givhan has ALWAYS been a reality check on the fashion industry and she has a concise and precise way of talking about clothes but what makes her a journalist and not just someone who writes about fashion is that she foregoes the fluffy, flourishing descriptions of the clothes themselves and instead frames her critiques within a much larger cultural context.  She doesn't talk about "zeitgeist" in terms of trendy shoes or restaurants, she's much more cerebral and she nails it every time.
  • This one is DEFINITELY worth the 3 minutes it takes to read.
  • You be the judge:  Head over to VOGUE to check out all the looks for yourself.  (Remember he's in See-Now, Buy-Now mode so what he showed is Spring 2018 but during Fall 2018 Fashion week)

HAVE A HAPPY WEEKEND!

Saturday, February 3, 2018

News | The Weekly Edit 2.3.18

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#MeToo Drives National Uptick of Sales in Black Dresses - Glossy

AFP/Getty Images via BBC

  • My thought bubble:  I'm a political news junky so it's been quite delightful in the Trump era to be able to marry 3 of my main interests: fashion, journalism, and politics without feeling like I'm reaching too much to intellectualize the industry. The "Semiotics of Dress" (yes, an actual academic field of study) highlights the interdependent relationship between the designer, the wearer, and the context in which clothing is created. Whether intentional or not, designers often reflect the political environment of their times. From Coco Chanel boldly proposing pants for women to bra burning in the 60's to the slogan T's of Vivienne Westwood and Katherine Hamnett to the ousting of John Galliano from his namesake company for his anti-Semitic rant (although also forgiven and now at the helm of Margiela) to Hillary Clinton's white pantsuit in honor of the Women's Suffrage Movement to today's LBD #MeToo moment. In its capitalistic, commercial incarnation a piece of clothing is just a scrap of fabric but in its purest form, can also be a vehicle for expression and dare I say, even change.

  • Quote to remember:  “We now live in a culture with increased demand for products that identify with wearers’ beliefs and interests,” said Katie Smith, retail analysis and insights director at Edited.

  • Politics or not you really can't go wrong with another Little Black Dress in your closet.

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What's a Rip-Off When Everything Looks the Same - Racked
  • My thought bubble:  No one really owns color blocking as a general concept but we're in the age of "Storytelling" and there's something very specific about Outdoor Voices and their brand message. In addition to the silhouettes themselves, Bandier chose the name Me/We (Me Over We) which seems like a pretty obvious riff on OV's message of encouraging group activity rather than competitive sport.
  • If you've ever walked into a Bandier store you know that they carry a lot of brands. The store environment has tightened-up since it first launched but as a multi-brand shop, they have an arsenal of "references" from which to draw upon. OV is known for their kits; essentially a clean crop top and color block leggings which seem to have a distinct identity despite their simplicity. We/Me has their own very similar version of this concept and it seems like a shameless ploy to attract the OV customer and take some of their market share.
  • EVERY company copies. EVERY. SINGLE. ONE.  It's disheartening to realize that most ideas are just recycled, watered-down versions of something else. It's less a result that designers don't have an original idea, rather more so that they work for a big machine and have little creative control. It never ceases to amaze me how so many companies fall prey to the same uninspired decision-making process.
  • Perhaps if there was a way to successfully litigate the rampant knock-offs, there would also be less crap in our landfills. 
  • I truly wish the terms of the settlement between Aquazzura and Ivanka Trump for her blatant copy of his very successful "Wild Thing" sandal was made public. I hope the compensation was gratifying for Aquazurra but publicly shaming these companies may be the best way to thwart this problem going forward
  • You decide:  Ultimately, I think it comes down to copying their ethos vs. individual items which in my opinion is the real crime.
Bandier
Outdoor Voices - Slashback Crop
Outdoor Voices
(note the side panel color block is referenced in Bandier version above)

Bandier's Me/We legging
photo via Racked
Outdoor Voices 7/8 Springs Legging

  • I think Ty Haney founder of Outdoor Voices said it best on her Instagram

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HAVE A HAPPY WEEKEND!

    Saturday, January 27, 2018

    News | The Weekly Edit 1.27.18

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    For the Last Time: White People, Don't Use the 'N-Word' - Fashionista


    • My apologies:  For having to post this picture.

    • The gist: The title of the article says it all and I will refrain from posting both of the offenders totally lame apologies. You're free to google them...they're easy to find. I'm tired of this PR stunt where people say what they mean and then pretend like they didn't mean it and go to Racial-Slur Rehab or whatever. 

    • The "Couture Designer" in question who wrote the note is Ulyana Sergeenko. The divorcee of a Russian billionaire, and perhaps known more for her "best customer" status among leading design houses rather than for her own design bona fides. That is, until according to her Wikipedia page, "she grew frustrated when pieces she had collaborated with designers on showed up in their collections with no credit given to her contributions. As a result, Sergeenko launched her eponymous fashion label in 2011 in Russia." 
    • The phrase in question is from Jay-Z and Kanye West's song by the same name and she defended herself by saying she uses the N-word among her besties as both a term of endearment and to show her great love and respect for the mega-mogul rappers.

    • The "Blogger" in question who received the note and stupidly posted it to her instagram account is Miroslava Duma who was swiftly removed from her position on the board of The Tot, a children's company she co-founded in 2015. Duma, the daughter of a Russian senator, began her career at Harper's Bazaar Russia and is a darling of many a street-style photographer. She is also the founder of both Buro 24/7 and Fashion Tech Lab and is now known as a "Digital Entrepreneur"-a title legitimized by a Trumpian ideology whereby Money+Beauty=Expertise and only someone from wealth with no formal background in either finance or digital marketing could be called.

    • My thought bubble:  I think my snide description of Ms. Sergeenko's and Ms. Duma's credentials gives you a clue as to where I stand on this issue. HOWEVER...I am not so self-righteous that I don't see a touch of faux-fashion outrage. These words are in fact featured in a well-known song by the same name BUT...

    • I think Ice-Cube said it best when he appeared on Bill Maher's show post Bill's own racial slur slip:
    "It's OUR word now."

    • To quote RHONY LuAnn "The Countess" de Lesseps:  "Money can't buy you class..."

    • Bonus quote from Game of Throne Season 5, Episode 10: "Shame...shame...shame..."

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Designer Mara Hoffman: As a Creative, Standing Still Will Kill You - The Glossy Podcast

    • The gist:  Three years ago, designer Mara Hoffman went through what one could call an existential crisis.

    • She had been running her eponymous label for 15 years when she hit a wall. Feeling like all her brand was doing was adding more “stuff” to the world - and causing harm to the environment - she knew she had to completely overhaul her business, or walk away from it all together.

    • My thought bubble:  Expect to see a lot more designers having their "Come-to-Jesus" moment.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Cornellians Share Advice, Warm Hat with Students from Puerto Rico - Cornell Chronicle

    • My warm and fuzzy thoughts:  Very proud of my Alma Mater for their generosity and compassion...and also for prepping people from palm tree laden climes for the shock of their lives!

    HAVE A HAPPY WEEKEND!

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    Saturday, January 20, 2018

    News | The Weekly Edit 1.20.18

    I read stuff online ALL. DAY. LONG.  I mean like, a lot.  Sometimes I tweet the articles but mostly the info just resides in my brain so in an effort to make some thinking space...

    HERE ARE THE 3 BEST READS OF THE WEEK:



    New Study Reveals Why Some People Are More Creative Than Others - The Conversation

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    What Gig Economy Workers Can Learn from the Success of Romance Writers - The Conversation

    • INTERESTING POINT: "Some 57.3 million U.S. workers freelanced in 2016, according to research firm Edelman Intelligence. Economists Lawrence Katz and Alan Krueger found that 15.8 percent of Americans work in “alternative work arrangements” (freelancing, contracting, temp work, etc.), up from 9.1 percent in 1995. In fact, they found that all net job growth in the U.S. from 2005 to 2015 came from such work. 

    • AND..."If you’re not already freelancing, you may be soon. Edelman predicts that given current growth rates, more than half of the American workforce will freelance by 2027."

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    A Cashmere Sweater Joins the Hollywood Resistance - The New Yorker



    Thursday, November 23, 2017

    Time To Be Thankful...and "Think-Full"

    While we're all being sloths on the couch recovering from our food comas, it seems like the perfect time to remind people that while we should all be grateful and happy for the good things in our lives, there is still much work to be done to make things even better.

    I'm excited to share my first published article for Knitting Industry and it's sister site Innovation In Textiles where I report from the United Nations in NYC about fashion and the massively deleterious effects its having on our planet.

    "Sustainability" is the buzzword du jour, and not to be a total buzz-kill, but before you load up your Amazon shopping carts on Black Friday, I encourage you to read my piece and think twice. Perhaps a donation to Greenpeace in a loved one's honor might be enticing instead?

    Here's a little morsel for you to chew on with dessert:

    It takes 913 gallons of water to make just one measly cotton t-shirt. That's enough drinking water for 1 person for 900 days! Yup. True fact. Need another? 1 in every 6 people on the planet is employed by the global apparel industry. It's no longer acceptable for anyone to say that fashion is frivolous. Its tentacles are literally everywhere.

    Click --- HERE --- to read on

    Sphere Within Sphere by Arnaldo Pomodoro
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    Saturday, October 8, 2016

    News | The Weekly Edit 10.8.16


    FOR INDUSTRY WATCHERS: (TDH's continuing series of industry shake-ups)
    TDH EDITOR'S NOTE: Brutal about Justin...he lasted about 7 months.

    FOR PATRIOTS:

    FOR PEOPLE WHO SLEEP THROUGH THEIR ALARM:

    FOR LADIES OF A CERTAIN AGE:

    Saturday, October 1, 2016

    News | The Weekly Edit 10.1.16


    FOR INDUSTRY WATCHERS: (TDH's continuing series of industry shake-ups)

    FOR ENTREPRENEURS:

    FOR PEOPLE WHO ARE CONFUSED:

    FOR CORPORATE LIFERS:
    TDH EDITOR'S NOTE:  If only this wasn't so true...(insert frowny-face)

    FOR COMEDIANS (& GOLFERS):
    • 'Gunga Galunga': Bill Murray is Launching an Irreverent Golf Clothing Line - Forbes
    TDH EDITOR'S NOTE:  Bill...call me!! We can provide you with the coolest golf sweaters around! 

    Saturday, September 17, 2016

    News | The Weekly Edit 9.17.16


    FOR INDUSTRY WATCHERS: (TDH's continuing series of industry shake-ups)

    FOR KNITTERS:
    TDH EDITOR'S NOTE:  Hmmm...I find this article misleading.  Yes, it is true that almost all of the world's cashmere fleece (i.e. the raw materials) comes from the same region in Mongolia but there is still a significant difference in the finished yarn and finished garment made by Uniqlo vs. a true luxury sweater made by someone like Brunello Cucinelli.  Not everyone can use the longest, most stable, 1st shearing fleece because it IS more expensive.  There definitely are different grades of cashmere fibre.  Italians and Chinese spin their fleece into yarn a bit differently.  More importantly they have a totally different artisanal approach or intangible "hand" to the way they knit.  Beyond that, a good cashmere sweater really comes down to the water used to wash it and how many sweaters are washed in the machine at the same time in the cleanest water.  That costs money.

    FOR PHILANTHROPISTS:
    TDH EDITOR'S NOTE:  Totokaelo is one of the best multi-brand stores out there who truly understands fashion, customer, and the changing retail environment.  Click the link to check out their website.

    Saturday, September 10, 2016

    News | The Weekly Edit 9.10.16


    FOR ENVIRONMENTALISTS:
    TDH Editor's Note:  PLEASE READ! PLEASE READ! PLEASE READ!

    FOR THOSE WHO SUFFER FROM BUYER'S REMORSE:

    Saturday, September 3, 2016

    News | The Weekly Edit 9.03.16


    FOR INDUSTRY WATCHERS: (TDH's continuing series of industry shake-ups)

    FOR ETHICISTS:

    FOR SHOPPERS:
    TDH EDITOR'S NOTE: This is the long-awaited e-commerce section of the site and is currently only available on the UK.

    Saturday, August 27, 2016

    News | The Weekly Edit 8.27.16


    FOR INDUSTRY WATCHERS: (TDH's continuing series of industry shake-ups)

    FOR DESIGNER-WANNABES:
    TDH EDITOR'S NOTE:  Excellent commentary.  I've been talking about this for a long time.  As a former adjunct professor I've lamented the fact that schools are a business and therefore need to keep admitting more and more students to make money but they do little to prepare students for the lack of jobs available when they graduate.  It gets even harder as you move up the ladder.  The pyramid gets totally choked around the 7-8 year mark.  Many schools operate on a very dated business model.  A more forward-thinking approach would be to re-structure curriculum to create new paths for the industry via technology, manufacturing, re-cylcing, etc.  This takes time, especially when you need to hire professors who can teach these subjects.

    IN MEMORIUM:


    Saturday, August 13, 2016

    News | The Weekly Edit 8.13.16


    FOR INDUSTRY WATCHERS:  (TDH's continuing series of industry shake-ups)

    FOR OLYMPIANS:

    FOR POLITCOS:
    TDH EDTOR'S NOTE:  As a fashion insider, I can attest this is accurate.  Something to think about what your leaders say but also as consumers, to consider if we have any say over how businesses big and small operate.

    FOR SCIENTISTS: 

    Saturday, August 6, 2016

    News | The Weekly Edit 8.06.16


    FOR INDUSTRY WATCHERS:  (TDH's continuing series of industry shake-ups)


    FOR POLITOCS:


    FOR TRADITIONALISTS:

    Saturday, June 18, 2016

    News | The Weekly Edit 6.18.16


    FOR INDUSTRY WATCHERS:  (TDH's continuing series of industry shake-ups)

    FOR DESIGNERS:

    FOR TECHIES & ATHLETES:
    TDH EDITOR'S NOTE:  All these innovation in wearables apparel rely on innovations in yarn.  Learn more about Sensoria Fitness on their website HERE

    Saturday, June 11, 2016

    News | The Weekly Edit 6.11.16

    FOR INDUSTRY WATCHERS:  (TDH's continuing series of industry shake-ups)
    TDH EDITOR'S NOTE: Wow....take your pick of the news articles out there about Ralph.  1200 people laid-off.  Shifting executive team.  Labels to be culled down or eliminated most likely.  You heard it here first folks...told 'ya there would be layoffs at RL.

    FOR DESIGNERS:

    FOR INSPIRATION:
    TDH EDITOR'S NOTE:  Note the large percentage from retail and fashion!